Superb literature disguised as smut. A golden 1970s cover for Kobo Abe's Yomiuri Prize-winning novel The Woman in the Dunes.
"... I rather think the world is like sand. The fundamental nature of sand is very difficult to grasp when you think of it in its stationary state. Sand not only flows, but this very flow is the sand."
-- Kobe Abe, The Woman in the Dunes
The Maasai women of Ngabolo, a small village in Tanzania’s Kiteto District, welcomed the WaterCan Climb for Life team with traditional song and dance.
After a short stop at Kibaya's local government offices, we received a warm welcome in Ngabolo, a small Maasai village of just under 1,300 people. Due to increasing pressures such as climate change and immigration, traditionally pastoralist communities like Ngabolo are facing challenges with permanent settlements, often finding their homes invaded by farmers when they return to their villages with their livestock for the wet seasons.
Permanency is also difficult because there is often no reliable source of safe water for families and their livestock.
Following speeches of welcome, we set out on the 20-minute walk to Ngabolo’s only water source—a steep 200-feet deep pit with a few tree branches guarding the entrance from predators (both human and non-). Other than the branches, there are no natural barriers to provide even a first level of defense against contaminants such as natural sediments and the plentiful cow feces that surrounds the ditch. At the bottom of the trench, there is a small pool of murky (and likely pathogen-rich) water.
Considering the factors that make this pit unsafe alongside the community’s desperate need for water brought Fela Kuti’s 1975 anthem “Water No Get Enemy” to mind. The pit is a paradox. While its water may temporarily sustain the villagers and their livestock, it is likely also the source of debilitating waterborne disease.
If villagers do get sick, there are not many places to turn. Ngabolo has a fully stocked—but padlocked—health clinic. Close by sits a half-finished school. Both are out of operation because these facilities are next to useless without a reliable source of clean and safe water. In reflection, one of our team members remarked that it’s one thing for charities to build a school and quite another to ensure that the school can be properly used. Same goes for clinics.
While WaterCan is not yet working with Ngabolo, executive director George Yap made a promise to investigate when the community formally requested our help with their water situation. It was a quiet drive to our next destination.
More from the trip soon.
"When I arrive at the first snowfields with my muscles still poisoned by the toxins of the city, I always leap like an idiot, feeling my head empty, my limbs drunk, and my heart open."
- René Daumal, Mount Analogue
After a relatively busy summer (Philippines, Portland, Wisconsin, Winnipeg, and Algonquin notwithstanding), the day job team has launched into our regular autumn conference season and production scramble. An unexpected influx of evening work has also come my way (thank you, freelance gods), making life a little more hectic than usual. Those of you who know me well know that “more hectic than usual” is pretty much my normal, so I guess it’s nothing new.
Anyway, somehow I’ve found the time to take up indoor rock climbing. Guess what? I LOVE IT. In my enthusiasm, morning runs have taken a back seat. Hikes are occasional. Kettle bells have ceased to exist. My regular gym still takes my money despite my long-term absence. Friends I’ve known for years are suddenly revealing that they’re active climbers, too. Finding it difficult to believe the sport took 30 years to find me.
I owe this discovery to the quickly approaching Kilimanjaro Climb for Life. Gotta say that the countdown on my fundraising page is making this trip seem pretty real. When I signed on last November, it seemed like lots of time to prepare for a 19,341-foot hike. Now there’s a mere 17 days until we depart. Good grief! I’m really going to regret putting off buying hiking boots until this week. Just watch — I’ll be the one clomping to every meeting from now until October 12.
Before the Kili team leaves to conquer the mountain, I’m squeezing one final event (October 3) into the mix to raise some funds for WaterCan. Event details are here. The bar (1602 Dundas West) has a different name every night – kinda the schtick – so that night it’ll be Kili-themed: “Summit Like It Hot.” Very relaxed atmosphere, PWYC donations, perhaps a familiar face or two behind the decks (or, more likely, the laptop).
Because our team has done so well ($224,793.38!), executive director George Yap told us this afternoon that they’re raising the Kili fundraising goal to $250,000. Friends, hope you can make it to this small summit party. Every little bit helps.
Originally posted on September 25. Switched to Squarespace and somehow lost this one.
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